Indochina Travel Destinations

What to Expect

For many the name Cambodia (or Kampuchea as it was formerly known) conjures images of war, famine, Pol Pot, the notorious ‘Killing Fields’ and political instability. True, these events have all been a part of this nation’s history, and a number of the places you will visit (particularly around Phnom Penh) are reminders of Cambodia’s tragic recent past. However, northwest of the capital near the town of Siem Reap, visitors will see one of mankind’s greatest architectural achievements. The magnificent temples of Angkor – of which Angkor Wat is the most famous – are permanent reminders of the incredible skill and dedication of the Khmer civilisation as it existed from the ninth to the fourteenth centuries. Forgotten and buried under dense jungle for hundreds of years, restoration of this ‘lost city’ only began in 1908. Angkor Wat is truly one of the great achievements of human civilisation.

Visa Requirements & Departure Taxes

Getting your Cambodian visa is a simple and efficient process.

• Tourist visas for most nationalities can be obtained on arrival at Phnom Penh or Siem Reap airports for $20USD cash. A visa form will be issued to you on the airplane or on arrival. You will also need one passport photo to accompany your visa application.
• By visiting http://www.mfaic.gov.kh and by paying $25USD by credit card, a 30-day tourist visa can be issued electronically within three business days (note that this visa is only valid for arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap international airports).
• Travellers on the ‘Mekong and Temples’ and ‘Inside Vietnam and Cambodia’ Small Group Journeys can get their Cambodian visa on arrival at the Kamsamna border post on the Mekong river on the day of the boat crossing from Chau Doc (Vietnam) to Phnom Penh. This is a straight-forward process.
• Travellers on ‘Ancient Kingdoms Explorer’ (which crosses into from Laos into Cambodia further up the Mekong at Voeng Kham) should obtain their visa in advance on departing their home country.

A Responsible Travel Indochina:

Travel Indochina practices a thorough, realistic responsible travel policy. We believe that travel should entail an exchange of knowledge and perspectives, a sharing of wealth, and a genuine appreciation of Asia’s beautiful natural environments. This philosophy underpins the heart and soul of our style of travel. Refer to the responsible travel pages on this site for more information about our responsible travel policy, and guidance on what you can do to be a responsible traveller.

Money:

The official unit of currency in Cambodia is the riel. For current exchange rates please visit http://www.xe.com

United States dollar cash is accepted everywhere and can easily be used instead of riel. As you will accumulate riel as change from payments you make in $USD, we recommend you change either nothing or very little (eg. $10USD) into riel upon your arrival in Cambodia. We advise you to carry $USD cash.

Please be aware that costs in Cambodia are significantly higher than in neighbouring Asian countries. The cost of meals, transport, and shopping often takes tourists by surprise. Credit cards (Visa and Mastercard) can be used in only a limited number of shops and restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. A number of ANZ Royal and Canadia bank ATMs are installed in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Battambang and Sihanoukville allowing you to withdraw money (in either USD or riel) from your overseas account. You should notify your bank if you intend to use your ATM card or Credit card whilst travelling overseas.  Cash advances can also be obtained using Visa and Mastercards at exchange booths and banks in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. We suggest you allow approximately $ 7 USD per person for a main course meal at a nice restaurant.

Climate:

There are two main seasons in Cambodia. From November to March temperatures are slightly cooler with little rain. From May to October, the rainy season, average temperatures in the day range from 24 to 35 degrees Celsius. During this period it rains for a short time in the afternoon, temple moats are full, the scenery is greener, and there are fewer people at the temples. Many people prefer to travel at this time of the year.

Health:

Travellers to Cambodia should take precautions as they would elsewhere in Asia. Some of the diseases known to exist in Cambodia include malaria, hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tuberculosis, Japanese encephalitis, dengue fever, diphtheria, tetanus, and HIV/ AIDS. We recommend you take adequate preventative measures to minimise your risk of exposure to these health risks. We are a travel company and we are not qualified to provide detailed medical information appropriate to your individual needs. We recommend you consult with your local doctor or a specialist travel medical centre for up to date health information on vaccinations and medicine for your trip, at least one month prior to departure. Medical facilities are limited throughout the country (even in the capital Phnom Penh) compared to western standards.

Food/ Water:

Cambodian cuisine is closely related to the cuisines of neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam. Until the 16th century Cambodian and central Thai food was quite similar,
however the Portuguese introduction of chillie (from Brazil) to Ayuthaya lead to a divergence in national staples; the Thais developed a preference for spicier, chillie-based foods, while the Cambodians continued to use a spice paste (called ‘kroeung’), comprising of milder flavourings such as lemongrass, galangal, ginger and cardamom. Some distinctly Cambodian dishes include ‘samlor ma chou kroeung’ and ‘samlor kor ko’ soups, and the ‘chas kroeung’ stir-fry. The pungent ‘prahok’ fish stock is usually included in these dishes. Rice, of course, is eaten with most meals. In cities such as Phnom Penh there are large numbers of ethnic Chinese who have brought their own influences to the Cambodian diet. Breakfast is included each day on our tours and is usually a buffet/ continental style mix.

Tipping Policy:

If you are happy with the services provided by your local guides, drivers and your tour leader, a tip is appropriate. While it may not be customary to you, tipping inspires great service, and is an entrenched feature of the tourism industry across Travel Indochina destinations. As a general guide on Small Group or Special Group Journeys, please allow $2USD to $3USD per day per traveller for each of your local guide, driver and tour leader. If your tour is private, please allow $3USD to $5USD per day per traveller for each of your local guide and driver.

Safety & Security:

Touristed areas in Cambodia are safe by world standards, but the usual commonsense safety precautions should be adhered to. Tourists should stick to set travel arrangements and avoid unknown areas. It is not safe to walk the streets of Phnom Penh at night where street lighting is poor. We recommend you keep jewellery to a minimum, and leave items of value in your hotel’s safety deposit box. Always keep a photocopy of your passport, airline tickets and credit card numbers, and a detailed record of your en-cashed travellers cheques.

Hotels:

Our Standard hotels have private western-style bathrooms, hot water, air-conditioning, satellite television, IDD telephones, laundry, and other facilities. Generally they have swimming pools. Where possible we endeavour at passenger request to accommodate couples in double rooms. Please note however that on occasions during your journey, this may not be possible and a twin room will be provided. Asia is home to some of the world’s most beautiful and historic hotels. With this in mind, we designed our range of Deluxe (Essence of Asia) journeys. The emphasis by day is unchanged – small groups and an authentic experience of Asia. At night however, you will have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the ambience of these specially selected hotels. Please note that in some cases Deluxe accommodation is not available. In these places we use the best hotels available. This will be clearly marked in your itinerary. Check-in and check-out times can vary but most hotels in Cambodia require guests to check out by 12 noon and do not allow check in until 2 pm. Many hotels may allow an earlier check in or later check out subject to availability on the day.

Tour Leaders/ Guides:

Providing the group tour reaches a minimum of seven passengers a western tour leader will guide your entire journey through Cambodia. All our tour leaders have an in-depth knowledge of Cambodia and an enthusiasm for the country that is contagious. Your tour leader is your link with Cambodia and is there to ensure the smooth running of the trip. Your tour leader will also try – wherever practicable – to cater for your individual interests. Local English speaking guides also accompany you on your tour. They impart local information about history, customs and culture that can only come from living in the area. Generally we have a different local guide for each city or region we visit and so local guides are usually only with the group for one to two days.

Language:

The official Cambodian language is Khmer and most westerners will have a very difficult time trying to understand written or spoken Khmer. French is sometimes understood by the older generation but English is becoming more widely spoken throughout the country, especially in tourist areas.

Recommended Reading

There is a wealth of reading about Cambodia, although not all of it is easy to find outside Asia. Many of the books below are available as photocopies in markets in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, or as originals in good bookstores in Thailand (Asia Books, Bookazine, Kinokuniya). Publishers can vary according to the country of printing and the edition, so we have not listed publisher details. Many titles focus on the Indochina War years or on the Pol Pot era; it is much harder to find good titles on other themes. A selection of our favourite/ recommended titles is as follows:

Guide books and the temples

• ‘The Rough Guide to Cambodia’, by Rough Guide Publications – This is the pick of the guidebooks on Cambodia, however the current 2002 edition is somewhat out of date in the eating and sightseeing sections. Full of relevant detail, good coverage of history and destinations, and easy-to-read maps.
• ‘Angkor, an Introduction to the Temples’ (Odyssey), by Dawn Rooney – Excellent lead-in to the wonderful temples and to ancient Khmer history. Several brief but illuminating pages on each main temple, with good colour photos.
• ‘National Geographic, May 1982’ – A series of interesting articles on Cambodia which researched the effects of the Khmer Rouge occupation on the temples of Angkor.

Travelogues

• ‘A Dragon Apparent, Travels in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam’, by Norman Lewis – This doyen of British travel writing writes lucidly and with perception of his travels in Indochina, at the end of the colonial era in the late 1950s. A classic.

Cambodian culture

• ‘Culture Shock Cambodia (A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette)’, by Peter North – The much-awaited Cambodia version in the ‘Culture Shock’ series contains practical information on the defining characteristics of Cambodian social norms and society. Highly recommended for responsible travellers who want more than just a surface understanding of a unique and complex culture.
• ‘The Khmers’, by Solange Thierry – Written by the former curator of the National Museum in Phnom Penh, this is an academic read explaining the roots of the Khmer people, with particular reference to Indian and Chinese influences.

The war years (and the Khmer Rouge period)

• ‘Cambodia, Report from a Stricken Land’, by Henry Kamm – Based on the author’s career experiences as a journalist in Cambodia from the 1970’s, and numerous interviews with Khmer Rouge leaders and Norodom Sihanouk. The book provides a concise account of the steps leading up to the rise to power of the Khmer Rouge, and its four year reign. Harsh words from the author about the inaction of the international community during these times, and about the refugee era created in the aftermath of the 1979 Vietnamese invasion.
• ‘Sideshow: Kissinger, Nixon and the Destruction of Cambodia’, by William Shawcross – Brilliant, comprehensive and highly controversial account of the USA’s complicated role in Cambodian political and military affairs in the 1960s and 70s. Heavy reading; best suited to those with a serious interest in international affairs and politics.

Survivor accounts

• ‘First They Killed My Father’, by Loung Ung – One of the better of a series of moving books about surviving the killing fields war years.
• ‘Stay Alive My Son’  by Pin Yathay – In a similar vein to ‘First They Killed my Father, this is remarkable story of survival, cunning and human spirit in the face of incredible odds and massive personal loss.
• ‘The Gate’, by Francoise Bizot – True story of Francois Bizot, the French ethnologist who was captured and imprisoned by the Khmer Rouge. Eerie recounts of the author’s interrogation sessions with Comrade Duch, the man who would later become the head of notorious Tuol Sleng concentration camp.
• ‘One Step Beyond’ by Chris Moon – Autobiography by young British man who worked in Cambodia in the early 1990s as a de-miner, survived kidnapping by the Khmer Rouge, lost two limbs in a landmine accident in Mozambique, then went on to run the London marathon. Inspirational.

The foreign aid industry

• ‘The Quality of Mercy’ by William Shawcross – Masterful account of international donor efforts to assist distraught Cambodia (and its massive border refugee population) in the post Pol Pot years. Very detailed and heavy, a stark commentary on the competing efforts of large aid organizations for global kudos.

Cambodian history

• ‘A Brief History of Cambodia’, by David Chandler – A heavy but highly detailed read for the person with an avid or academic interest in Cambodian history, from its early beginnings to the present. Consider reading the chapter on Jayavarman VII (the ‘temple builder’) in isolation from the rest of the book, for a good overview of arguably the most significant of Angkor’s kings.
• ‘A Short History of Cambodia’, by John Tully – This hot of the press account of Cambodian history is far easier to read than Chandler’s seminal work, yet gives good, concise coverage of matters ancient and recent comprising Khmer history.
• ‘Brother Enemy, The War After the War’ by Nayan Chanda – seminal book detailing the history of Indochina since 1975 (the fall of Saigon) with reference to the historic antipathies between Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. This is a hard read which perhaps better falls under the heading of ‘Indochina politics’.
• ‘Sihanouk, Prince of Light, Prince of Darkness’, by Milton Osborne – Milton Osborne is one of the best and easiest to read writers on Indochina and Cambodia. Osborne lived in Phnom Penh from the late 1950s and used his societal contacts and other research sources to prepare this frank account of the enigmatic and ultimately self-centric Sihanouk. Osborne has written many books on Cambodia which are well worth reading.

General

• ‘Gecko Tales’, by Carol Livingston – A fine and humorous read based on the author’s experience covering the United Nation’s supervision of elections in the early 1990s. Some astute comments about the role and effectiveness of the United Nations and its administrative, military, and support personnel.
• ‘River of Time’, by Jon Swain – One of the best introductory reads into the trauma of the Indochina war era. Swain writes of his personal experiences as a journalist and resident in Phnom Penh and Vietnam, and recounts some soul destroying stories from Cambodia’s lost decade, the 1970s. He was one of the last foreigners to evacuate Phnom Penh in 1975, from the grounds of the French embassy.

When is the best time to travel to Cambodia?

All year is fine. Travellers should note that Cambodia is especially hot and humid (highs of 35 – 38 degrees) between May and September. In December, January and February, humidity is at its lowest. Photographers should travel during the hot wet period for the best colours and clearest skies. The rain is usually confined to a torrential afternoon downpour of 1-2 hour duration.

What kinds of transport are used on tour?

For road journeys and inner city touring, Toyota coaster buses are used. These are modern, well maintained, safe vehicles – good for small group travel. Domestic flights are on French built ATR 72 or Fokker 70 aircraft.

Will I encounter lots of poverty and squalor travelling through Cambodia?

Cambodia is one of the poorest countries in Asia and is slowly emerging from its tragic past. Travellers will encounter beggars in the cities and will also likely be confronted by poverty and victims of landmines. However, travellers will also see the ‘new’ Cambodia, where people are eagerly embracing business opportunities and development as the country reestablishes itself after a tragic recent past.

How much money will I spend per day touring?

Approximately US$12 per person for day to day living. Cambodia is a country that offers great value for your money. For around US$12 you will be able to buy lunch and dinner at good restaurants, as well as refreshments (non-alcoholic) during the day.